oceansedge: (Kitchen)
Hello again. We're taking a bit of a break from Market Day Posts to bring you The Great Vicky Baker Off. For fans of the Great British Bake Off, you'll understand this reference, for those who aren't familiar with the show (currently only running on the other side of the pond, but hugely popular - really any baker who is even passingly familiar with pop culture has most likely heard of it).

Now the CBC, here in Canada, is planning their own version The Great Canadian Baking Show, and of course, I cannot resist tossing my hat in the ring. I've been obsessing about this and my application for the last two weeks and today my application goes in.

While I've been obsessing - it seemed prudent to practice and make sure my chops are what I think they are, and try and polish what are rough spots for me. Honestly, after my diabetes diagnosis, I wasn't entirely sure I'd ever really be able to bake at my former levels again.... it hurt to think about. With my health under control, and learning that I can be both - diabetic and baker. I thought this could be a good test of whether or not I still have it, and do I have it well enough to open my own café, and can I bake everyday and still keep my blood glucose numbers under control. In short I'm thrilled, nervous, and excited to be baking again - and to see how my skills compare to the world at large out there.

One of the things I thought I ought to do, I tracked down some of the season 7 (latest) episodes of The Great British Bake Off and am trying them out - time limits and all - over the next weeks. This will introduce me to things I may not have thought of, some new techniques and interesting things, as well as encouraging me to take my normal good game to a higher level.

Strengths: Planning, Timing, Organization. In a past life I was an airline dispatcher - and a very good one, planning, timing and organization was the very lifeblood of being a good dispatcher - or Chief Dispatcher. I've always said, if I have a super-power - it's planning, I can plan anything faster and more thoroughly than any human being alive.
.. and breads, my yeast breads are glorious and to die for, I *will* win bread week, and my laminated pastries - croissants anyone, are pretty much a "could do with my eyes closed"

Weaknesses: Hand skills, I don't have the dexterity a lot of people do for fiddly wee hand skill things. So Cakes will be my downfall. Piping, decorating, neat and beautiful, that's high on my practice page. And maybe stick with what I can do well, fondant cut outs, molded gum paste. After all my cocounut cake is a thing of glory because .... all that shining WHITENESS ... a lovely boiled italian meringue frosting and just heaps of bright white coconut. It looks a thing of beauty, but very little hand skills involved.

All that said, I'm going to be posting the failures as well as the winners - because we need to learn, and as always I share the learning with you gentle reader, that's how we both get better at this.

Week One was just such a failure. Decided to try the Mirror Cake - because it was a decorating technique I'd not tried before, and because I've had génoise cakes fail on me before (too much stuff in the batter - it fell flat.)

I will say that once I stuck to Julia's "Perfect Génoise" recipe, without trying to doll it up with cherries and 'stuff' - the cake batter worked much better. It does take a bit of getting used to - to quote Julia, "Sturdy, firm, adaptable, and amenable to almost any flavouring, the génoise is the first cake a French patissier learns to make and the one (s)he'll make most often in his/her career. It is drier than most American cakes and, for this reason, not every American's favourite, but it's dryness is considered an asset by the French, who soak their génoise with sugar and liqueur syrups of every conceivable savor." It's firmer dryer texture does make me want to believe the cake failed, but as the blind taster remarked they loved the cake it was more 'pound cake like' than the usual fluffy fare.

So the batter turned out perfectly - really it's just a question of beating those eggs a minute past when you think it might be ready, give it a little bit more, and being very gentle with the folding in the flour. No nothing but cake flour will really work well here.
Perfect Batter

It baked beautifully. (As a side note, you have to know when a cake is done, more than one competitor has been tripped up by the use of an unfamiliar oven - and I expect they will be using convection ovens in competition rather than standard ovens. It took me some time to get used to the vagueries of this oven it might get tricky when I have an oven that actually holds it's temperature properly.)
Baked genoise

It has a lovely crumb and a beautiful texture... but it is different from what a lot of us think of when we say "cake".
Nice crumb
(ignore the bad lighting - shooting in the kitchen lighting is always challenging)

This is where things started going a bit sideways though.
My thought process was - most people do white chocolate in the mirror glaze, what if I changed it up a bit and did a white chocolate butter cream filling / crumb coat, and a fruit glaze? Rather than the more traditional other way around? There wasn't too much wrong with the white chocolate butter cream , it's hard to mess that up.... although it was very sweet and needed a bit more white chocolate and vanilla I think to really shine.
Melted white chocolate and whipping cream
Melted white chocolate and whipping cream

.. and a bigger bowl
.. and a bigger bowl"

So while the butter cream needed some minor tweaks, it was the mirror glaze which I haven't done before that let me down. Problem one. Non of the recipes I came across gave a temperature to boil the syrup to, so it really came out a bit thin. Also the cake should have been colder - freezer, not fridge next time. It just didn't adhere as well as it should have. Secondly, I was working with frozen mango chunks and should have thought to thaw them first and actually cook it into the syrup part.... adding the cold pureed mango to the syrup really brought the temperature down, and if it had been candied enough - it would have solidified the syrup before it even poured. Thirdly - mango and sugar syrup - it was deathly sweet especially with the white chocolate butter cream, it needs a hit of sharp, lemon juice would be the usual way to go.... but I'm thinking maybe go lime for a bit of the unexpected next time.

Thin syrup

In the assembly ... it failed some. Partly that lack of hand skills thing. It needed to have the cake sides more tidied up and even, the butter cream crumb coat needed to be smoother. Then perhaps the mango glaze had it been the right consistency would have worked better, and the 'sunrise' effect I was going for with the naturally coloured sunny mango and darker, copper red glaze would have worked better.

Sunrise surpise

Lovely but not good enough

What it was - was a nice enough home baked cake, but not anywhere near competition standard. We will do this again... because we learned something, and I can see that the perfect mirror cake is within my grasp.




Now the next challenge this week is:
2 batches of 12 each danish pastries, one sweet, one savoury in 3.5 hours.

Danishes? Laminated pastry? I got this. BUT. 3.5 hours? I don't know a danish pastry recipe that doesn't call for a minimum 4 hr rest (preferably overnight). But I'll try it. Also the burning question... most of the competitors went with a traditional lamination - dough, then butter, a la puff pastry or croissants, on the other hand, all my recipes, Julia, Anna Olson (will she be a judge? really in Canada in TV bakers who else is there? But she might still be under contract to Shaw?)... all refer to the method most used in Denmark these days of the butter in the dough before lamination - a sort of short cut puff pastry method - like a yeasted short crust, that's then laminated.

The sweet: goat cheese and port wine jelly - I keep wanting to ADD something to this to make it "MORE" but.. I can sometimes over think a thing. And it should be perfect as JUST cheese and port wine. (or maybe a dried tart cherry or two?)

The savoury: roasted garlic goat cheese with sun dried tomato sausage topped with sun dried tomato and kalmata olives. I was just going to go with the sausage, but I'm not happy there's enough of the tomato in the sausage. So we'll top it with a bit more.

We've got a half a pot of coffee, a full larder, it's 3.5 hours to the buzzer and we're wearing aprons over our pajamas....BAKE IT!

Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Kitchen)
Riverview Farms has had a bumper crop of cranberries this year, and of course, I'm making the best of it.

I love cranberries, their bright fresh taste gives you fresh fruit late into the year and they're so easy to use. A quick rinse, a quick chop and they'll go in anything. Or cranberry sauce; simply 2 cups of cranberries, a little orange zest if you like, and a cup of sugar and simmer till the cranberries pop.

This morning, it was cranberry scones. 15 mins. to mix up, 20 mins. to bake, 10 mins. to cool, and we had a lovely fresh breakfast on our way out the door. I didn't even have to get up any earlier, I just grabbed my shower while they were in the oven.

Cranberry Scones

Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Kitchen)
Sundays with muffins

But I still love fall weekends, even when they don't have that glorious late year sunshine. Thanksgiving weekend is always a bit of the embodiment of all that is marvellous and wonderous in autumn. Because I've never worked a traditional M-F schedule we tend to plan around 'near enough', and besides who wants to do a huge big meal on Monday and then get up early on Tuesday for work. Bah Humbug to that. So we almost always do Thanksgiving supper on Sunday.

But the Thanksgiving feast post is later.

This post is about mornings. And muffins.
Nothing much new to say about muffins, but I did need to get a little inventive.

See The Feychild, she loves cranberries, just not with the poultry feast (it has been chicken, traditional turkey, but since we moved to Nova Scotia it's been a duck every year - my only duck of the year). She also loves orange juice, just not with a lot of pulp, I got a few jugs of orange juice from work for cheap, but they had extra pulp. So I'd strained the orange juice, but that left me with a lot of orange pulp. I was gonna use the orange pulp up with some left over pineapple (from the carrot cake adventures), but that fell by the wayside. So why not 'orange cranberry muffins'? However most orange cranberry muffin recipes call for orange juice and zest, not pulp. So a bit of muffin recipe adaptation was called for. The results were a very nice muffin indeed, so without further ado:

Orange Cranberry Muffins

  • 2 cups all purpose flour

  • 3/4 cups granulated sugar

  • 2 tsp baking powder

  • 1/2 tsp baking soda

  • 1/2 tsp salt

  • 1 cup fresh cranberries - chopped

  • 2 tbsp granulated sugar

  • 3/4 cups orange pulp

  • 1/4 cup orange juice

  • 1/3 cup oil

  • 1 egg

Muffins cooling on an open rack

Method:

  • 1. Preheat oven to 400°F

  • 2. In a medium size bowl, whisk together dry ingredients - flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

  • 3. Toss chopped cranberries with the 2 tbsps of sugar

  • 4. Stir cranberries into dry ingredients

  • 5. Whisk orange pulp together with juice, oil, and egg

  • 6. Pour wet ingredients into dry, and stir just until well combined - about 10 turns

  • 7. Fill lined muffin tin - I like to fill the cups more or less to the top (I like a big muffin top)

  • 8. Sprinkle with turbinado sugar or streusal topping

  • 9. Bake in a 400°F oven for 20 mins or till golden brown and a toothpick inserted comes out clean


It's a lovely easy start to a Thanksgiving Sunday that will involve much baking and roasting and cooking of things later in the afternoon

Muffins - a bit of sunshine on an otherwise cold and damp day

Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Kitchen)
On the heels of last week's lost philosophical / political post, I am going to make a serious effort to recreate it, but in the meantime we're taking a little break to talk about cooking. Normally Sunday would be a Market Day post, but thanks to Friday night shifts I haven't made it to the market in a couple weeks. However, this weekend is the Feychild's annual Valentine's birthday dinner.

Her favourite foods have always been spagetti and chicken so her request for chicken parmesan for her celebratory dinner wasn't much of a surprise.

Honestly, neither was her choice of a 'store bought cake' a surprise either. She's still at that age (and having grown up in a asture household) where 'home made' still kinda feels 'poor' to her. I admit for a long time I too felt the same way, and then when we were a bit more flush I discovered that 'store bought' might be more middle class, but it doesn't taste better. She's also always been of the mind that those who get paid for stuff are 'experts', and she has a deep abiding faith in expertise. Ah to be 24 again.

Still it's her cake. I was after a Red Velvet cake for her, it's Valentine's appropriate and one of her favourites. I couldn't find one at work - so she ended up with home made anyway. She didn't mind, and it turned out well.

Soooooooooo chicken parmesan, I made this one up as I was going along. We started with 3 good sized boneless skinless chicken breasts cut in half. Soak the chcken pieces in buttermilk for 30 min or so. Drain and dredge them with flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Dip the floured chicken in beaten egg, and then toss with crushed cracker crumbs - I season my 1.5 cups of cracker crumbs with 1 tsp italian seasoning, 1/2 tsp paprika and 1/2 tsp dry mustard. Deep fry the chicken pieces in hot oil - 365°F for 5-7 mins till they're brown and crispy. Drain.

Cook 300 grams of spagetti to almost al dente, drain, toss with 1 tbsp of butter and a half cup of grated parmesan cheese. Layer in the bottom of a greased (I used bacon fat) casserole dish snuggle the chicken pieces into the pasta. Cover well with several cups of pasta sauce (I use my 1/1/1 sauce) and sprinkle liberally with a mix of mozzerella and parmesan cheeses. Bake at 350°F for 35 mins.

1/1/1 Sauce:
1 28 oz can crushed tomatoes
1 28 oz can diced tomatoes
1 onion
1 sweet pepper
1 lb ground beef
1 bay leaf / 1 tsp italian seasoning / 1 tsp salt / 1/4 tsp pepper / 1 dried chili pepper (or season to taste)

I upsize or down size this as needed - the even ratios make that very simple. Catering size cans of tomatoes = 3 28 oz ones, and makes a month worth of pasta sauce in an 8 litre crock pot. I use this as the base of most of my pasta / red sauce dishes, from lasagna to stuffed shells to chicken parmesan and chili.

The last batch I made I added a bit of pancetta that was threatening to go off soon and that added a lovely smokey flavour to the chicken parmesan.
chicken parmesan

The cake was a red velvet cake from Joy of Baking's recipe. I find their cream cheese frosting recipe one of the nicest I've had.

I admit, I'm always a bit flumoxed by the instruction to cut the cake into two layers each. Not the instruction itself, but that even using the correct sized pans it never seems to come out tall enough to get two nicely thick layers out of it. But assembled it seems ok and tall enough, still I think I'd like to try it with a double recipe batch sometime.

I admit my decorating hand skills still leave something to be desired - especially when I'm rushing a bit at 8pm because I slept in till 3 in the afternoon. (I did work the night before so I can be forgiven for that.)

Red Velvet Cake

Red Velvet Birthday Cake

Good food, an excellent and surprising (and touching) movie - The Box Trolls (highly recommended) and a little 7" tablet (which has been an excellent little piece of kit for the price) so she doesn't have to feel badly about borrowing my Kobo .... and I'd say birthday #24 can be counted as a success.



Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here

Nummies

Sep. 26th, 2014 04:55 pm
oceansedge: (Kitchen)
Croissants, proof that God really did love the French after all...

I've struggled a little with croissants, and by struggle I mean this is only the third time I've made them, but the first time I'd call them an unqualified success.

Croissants

Bought a new pan this past weekend. I admit a unreasonable fondness for speciality pans - I was lusting after the Christmas train one for a long time, and then there was a lovely fall acorn one ... they're a nice heavy cast pan - glorious. This one isn't quite the acorn one, but still a nice fall theme. Acorns, pinecones, pumpkins ... normally they're $25 but it was on sale at $4.44 - I couldn't pass it up.

Autumn cakes pan

Tried the recipe that came with it Hazelnut Financiers called for butter, but tried olive oil instead, turned out a little a bit tough, but tastey, they need chocolate filling I think.

Hazelnut Financiers


Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Default)
I know there haven't been a lot of posts lately, and even fewer about actual WORK stuff. Partly because the work is going slowly and it's all stuff we've done before. Hardwood flooring, painting doorways and door frames, spraying wainscoting. There should be an 'office' post this week.

In the meantime, lets take a Sundays with Pastries break.

If there's one thing the Baking with Julia has taught me (other than fancy breads are not beyond my scope) it's that my family will always love brioche - in ANY of it's myriad of forms. The original brioche was a huge hit, as were the brioche based pecan sticky rolls. However, I had my sights set on the twice baked brioche, a very traditional french pastry, and I'd been itching to try it.

So prepare one recipe of the brioche dough. I got that down pat. It's a bit time consuming - takes a few hours on a Saturday afternoon while you're doing other things, but it isn't terribly difficult. While that's rising and resting, you can make the rest of it up ahead of time, or not, as your schedule allows. Once you've rolled out your brioche it's going to rise for another hour, so you'll have time then to do your pastry cream and orange simple syrup. The recipes for the pastry cream and syrup are on the alacartetv (producers of the series Baking with Julia) website as well.

So take your brioche dough out of the fridge - you're only going to use half, so divide the dough, wrap the second half with plastic wrap, place in a freezer bag, and freeze it for next Sunday's pastry adventure.
Freeze the second half

Divide your dough into 10 equal size little balls. An accurate digital kitchen scale simplifies this.
Small ball of dough

You want to roll it out to approximately a rectangle a little longer than your mini loaf pan
Roll out your dough

Adding the dried cherries in after you've rolled the dough makes the rolling a bit easier. I used whole dried cherries, but I think next time I'll chop them and sprinkle them over the dough.
Place the cherries on your rolled out dough

Either way, you want to gently roll up your dough fairly snugly with the cherries inside. You want the dough to rise into each other, not separate layers.
Roll up the dough like a cigar

Tight little roll

When you get to the end, you want to pinch the dough together to seal the seam, fold up the ends, and pinch those to seal them as well.
Seal it all up with a good pinching

You end up with a nice little roll just the right length for your little mini loaf pans
Nice neat little roll

Fill your mini loaf pans, cover em with a sheet of oiled cling film and let em rise somewhere warm for about an hour.
Set your pan off to rise

Simmer up your orange simple syrup
Pot of lovely orange syrup

And beat your almond pastry cream
Almond pastry cream - whipped light and fluffy

After the brioche have risen, you'll bake em the first time, and then allow to cool.
The rest is all just an easy, if somewhat messy assembly job.

Slice a little off the tops so they're squared up a bit, dip em in the syrup, place on a rack to drip, spread with a layer of the almond cream, sprinkle with almonds, and bake for the second time, until the almond cream is golden and beautiful.
Golden little cakes

Dust em with a bit of icing sugar, and try and get a picture before they all disappear!
Twice baked briochy goodness

Delightful, delicious, decadent...
Grab em while you can, they won't last

Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Default)
This week for something different I decided to try this Braided Easter Bread from Foodnetwork Canada. It came up on their FB page on Friday as the 'Recipe of the Day' and I love a nice eggy bread. So we decided to try it on.

Lovely loaf! The hint of sweet, the warm aroma of orange, the subtle citrus taste, with a hint of honey. All in all a wonderful bread. Still there were a few issues with the recipe. It had that 'unit' thing that keeps cropping up in FNC recipes from time to time. With the instructions themselves; one really needs to let the milk cool down after boiling before adding it to the yeast and eggs right away, as the recipe implies. It can be very warm, but if you add it right off the boil you'll kill the yeast and cook the eggs. There is no discussion of how sticky is 'too sticky', it is a very gooey loaf, but some guidelines about how wet or sticky it should be, or how much more flour to add would be helpful; also, there are no indications how 'long' you should make the ropes of dough for braiding. Long can mean a lot of different things to a lot of different people. (How long is a piece of string?). I do think FNC could probably make use of a good recipe editor - one with cooking experience.

I also still have a few issues on occasion with the air assist on my oven. Some people will recommend reducing the temperature by 10° for air assist ovens, but that sort of defeats the purpose of the air assist. 9 times out of 10, I find that reducing cooking time by 5 minutes and starting to check 10 minutes out, usually resolves the issue for me, but on that 10th occasion it'll come out a bit overdone.

Still a really really lovely loaf - I do love egg breads. I will make this one again!

Braided Easter Bread

There is also some lovely pecan rolls - the second half of a batch done a few weeks back has been waiting in the freezer. I also think I'll try making a nice lemon meringue cake for dessert tonight.

Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Joyous)
Continuing our attempts to work our way through Baking With Julia - the croissants a couple of weeks ago just didn't work out. They were edible and buttery, but not terribly risen, or fluffy flaky. Important note: when Baking with Julia fails - it's inevitably my fault for not following the directions exactly. The croissants called for fresh yeast, and I tried doing a substitution - and in fact that MAY work, but I think the yeast will have to be bloomed first, and not just added dry. We'll have to try that one again.

However, this week's Danish Braid, was a smashing success!
Danish Braid

I've really become quite comfortable with the 'puff pastry' style of pastry (Roll, fold, chill, roll, fold, chill) and they're coming out quite nicely now. They can be a bit time consuming in that they need a bit of planning ahead, but they're not that difficult if one takes care and doesn't rush. Keep the butter pieces large, keep your dough chilled. Marble is a wonderful surface to work pastry on as it holds the cold, that said, I don't have a marble slab that big. So I like to work on a largeish 24x18 silicone baking mat, it keeps the pastry from sticking (and if it does stick to the mat, it's relatively easy to pull off), and it makes turning and moving the pastry for nice rolling technique a lot simpler. It holds to the countertop well, and holds the pastry without sticking. Also it makes clean up simpler, toss the mat in the sick, wipe any excess flour from the counter. Best of all possible worlds.

The fillings were apricot and almond paste, and very rich and sweet. The whole thing was a delight to eat
Danish Braid slice

The only problem I had was cutting the slants for the braid in the wrong direction on one side. In general my pastry braiding technique is going to need a little work to get it up to 'beautiful'. But for now, for a first effort, I'll settle for pretty!

Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Default)
It's become my habit to test out new pastries each Sunday morning. As James does bacon and eggs on Saturday it only seems fair. Last week's brioche based pecan rolls were a delight but got eaten before photos could be taken. Even if I never own a cafe, or food cart, the practice is becoming a delightful habit.

This week, I decided to try a lovely looking brunch pastry - once again from my beloved Julia Child. This apricot pastry is a puff pastry based recipe, and while I've had a good deal of success with the 'quick' food processor puff pastry I tried at the holidays I did want to try my hand at Julia's proper 6 turn true french pastry puff pastry.

Once again the big surprise is how easy this was. Follow the directions, time and patience, and it's really no trouble at all. Yes, rolling the pastry out 6 times is a bit of a pain, but my kitchen tends towards the cool side so I was able to get two turns out of each 'rest in the fridge for 1 hour). Flour, water, butter, a bit of time, a bit of muscle, and the results are beautiful. Again to save myself some aggravation before my first coffee on Sunday morning, the pastry was made up yesterday and resting in the fridge for this morning's assembly.

The apricot pastries called for blanched apricots, pastry cream (aka creme anglaise, aka custard), and a bit of apricot jam for glazing. Admittedly what the grocery stores here have in the way of fresh apricots in February is pretty sad, so yeah I did go with a canned apricot (and subsequently a commercial apricot jam) hopefully future attempts will see real fresh apricots. Again the pastry cream - which is really just a custard - milk, vanilla, egg yolks and corn starch - can be made up in advance although I wouldn't do it more than a day or two ahead.

So from 4" rounds of puff pastry, rolled out on sugar to elongate them into 8" ovals and embed the sugar into the pastry. Place em sugar side up on an ungreased baking sheet, put a small dollop of pastry cream, two apricot halves to look like egg yolks, and bake it for 30 mins at 350°F.


Once they come out of the oven....


Watch out for the furry speed bump who supervises all work in the kitchen - especially pastries


Glaze the hot pastries with apricot jam - melt it down with a drop of water, or even better the syrup from blanching the apricots (or the can syrup) - and brush it on gently with a pastry brush.


The result is, in my mind, the single most beautiful pastry I've made to date. It's lovely, it's whimsical, it's fun, and an absolutely HAPPY thing to look at.


Unfortunately, the recipe made 8 pastries, and there were only three of us for brunch this morning. I have 2 left overs, what ever shall I do?


Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Default)
It seems a bit odd - with all my recent success with baking yeast breads to post about a 'plain old boring loaf of white bread', but ya know the successes I've been having have been for the most part with nice easy rustic loaves. That's not a bad thing. A nice crusty crackly flour dusted round of rustic bread is a beautiful thing. However, it doesn't always make the best sandwiches, and it doesn't fit all that well in the toaster. And while the recipe I'd been using went into bread pans just fine, and it baked up nicely - it still wasn't what I would deem an extraordinary "sandwich loaf".

Sooooooooo ... after practicing some basic skills with Julia's brioche (in the aptly named 'batters and doughs' first chapter) it was time to move onto chapter 2 and "every day loaves". Loaf one - a nice simple plain old white bread sandwich loaf. The real difference between this loaf and my previous attempts at turning a rustic loaf into sandwich bread, is the addition of 2 oz of butter. Not as much as one finds in the brioche, but still enough to make the dough look pretty funky for a while. The butter really makes for a nicely softened crust (as opposed to the crackly crust of an artisan bread), which is pretty much what you want in a nice sandwich / toast loaf. The crumb is fine and dense but well held together and not heavy. So again a wee bit of a revelation and a very very pretty loaf of bread.

Even a 'plain old white bread' can be extraordinary ... if it comes out perfect. I think I shall have a second helping of toast this morning.



Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Default)
Yes. It's true. Everything is better with bacon. And now thanks to what Julia Child started on PBS decades ago, and is now continued on by networks like The Foodnetwork and the cooking channel and still by PBS and even the likes of the Travel channel, and the History network people are now vicariously being exposed to more and more 'secrets' of cooks and chefs.

The magic of mixing salty with sweet, which like many 'insider' bon mots, is now being shared with the great unwashed masses - you and me - and is no longer the soul providence of epicureans. You may recall our recent post about Nigella Lawson's Salted Caramel.

Bacon as a sweet treat, once held only by geeks and nerds and fandom based websites selling novelties to baconies across the country and around the world.

And what was wrong with that?

Nothing.
No really. Bacon is one of those perfect foods. I can think of no other that has such a wide spread loyal carnivrous fandom. No restaurant, no foodstuff, no dessert or ham or hamburger garners such devotion love and praise!

But it deserves better than novelty lollipops or bacon flavoured chewing gum. Chefs knew this. And now, with widespread TV food and chefs and cooks you and I know it too.

Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin restaurant in NYC. Easily one of the finest restaurants, and one of the finest chefs in America today. One of those chefs that other cooks get a glassy eyed look over when they hear his name, they want to be him, and they want to eat his food. Beloved and envied. Eric shares on his website, and his PBS show 'Avec Eric' his simple and brilliant recipe for Bacon Ice cream. It's hard not to at the very least be intruiged and at least want to try it .. if nothing else for sheer novelty.

Alton Brown in his series Good Eats also did his bit to convince us all that salty and sweet belong together. His recipe for Praline Bacon is enough to get any fan of the pork product drooling.


Now you can serve ice cream on it's own, but that lacks a certain panache. I don't have figs to roast, and wine caramel might be a bit too much of a stretch for the tastes of the household. One tastebud hurtle at a time. So I had to figure what else I could serve bacon ice cream with. The answer seemed obvious. Dark chocolate. Something light and crispy. With the egg whites left from the ice cream custard the answer was... dark chocolate meringue cookies. That one I made up as I went:

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.
4 eggs whites, a pinch of salt, 1/8 tsp cream of tarter - whip to stiff peaks
continue to whip, add 225 gr of golden (soft) brown sugar, or fine raw sugar.
when stiff and glossy, add 25 gr of cocoa stir in well.
add 1/2 cup of finely grated dark chocolate.

Use a piping bag to pipe 2 tsp rounds onto your prepared baking sheet. Bake in preheated 285°F for 40 minutes until dry and crispy on the outside and chewy inside.

So when the cookies were cooled, they were plated with a scoop of bacon ice cream. The ice cream was topped with the cooled praline bacon chopped into a course crumble.


The result is ... stunning. Conciousness altering. The ice cream gives a strong smokey aroma of bacon but the taste is subtle gentle elegant. I had thought about adding maple to the bacon ice cream but I'm so glad I didn't, it would have overwhelmed the delicate flavour. The combination and juxaposition of crispy cookies, and creamy ice cream, of sweet and salty, the aroma of the smokey bacon, and the gentle rich deep flavour of the dark chocolate. It all worked perfectly. Individually the single elements are amazing - together they transcend to something that will change your life, or at least your perceptions of what food is or can be.

Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Default)
Some time ago, my dearest beloved mentioned to me that he'd been missing the lovely food known as 'sausage rolls' - now there are a lot of things known as sausage rolls in this part of the world, but its really a pretty closely defined thing in Australia. A tube of sausage meat encased in a very very flakey puff pastry and served with tomato sauce (aka ketchup).

So it was that thought, (and recipes) that was lurking in the back of my mind one pre holiday shopping trip in the grocery store. I admit in the cool light of the glamourous displays of pre holiday finger foods it's easy to get carried away. The goat cheese and fig look delightful, who can say no to a mini beef wellington, and the pocket size samosas and boxes of mixed dumplings...... arrgghh..

OK DEEP BREATH. No more prepared foods. That was our goal. The pictures look pretty but they never taste as good as they look. I have some frozen puff pastry, I have left over beef tenderloin (yes really ... left over...) and James wanted sausage rolls, and I need to learn puff pastry eventually. OK. No packaged canapes and h'or dourves. I got out of the grocery without a single overpriced box of bake and serve nibbles.


I had a couple recipes from James for sausage rolls, and figured that a good place to start. One came from Master Chef Australia - seemed simple enough. I got some nice mild italian sausage in the freezer - ok done deal there. And I'd done beef wellingtons before, so it shouldn't be too hard to do bite sized versions especially considering that a couple of the end pieces from the birthday beef tenderloin were really more of a 'chunk into bite size pieces' state than a 'I can make filet mignons with this' state.

The trick then would be the puff pastry. I only had one roll left in the freezer from a previous experiment - time to try my hand at this. I have three cook books I consider my standards for baking. Julia Child's Baking With Julia (really wish I had the DVD's of the series to go with it!) I consider my 'Master Skills' advanced level bread book, I consider the Cake Bible my Master Skills advanced level cake book. Now I wasn't entirely sure I was ready yet for master skills puff pastry - so I turned to my ever faithful 'The Complete Canadian Living Baking Book'. This book for me, is a good solid intermediate level course in all things baked - I can count on it for solid standards reasonably accomplishable recipes. Their recipe for 'quick puff pastry' may not be the french culinary standard - but it is real butter puff pastry and a good place to start understanding this kitchen basic.

The making of pastry in a food processor is always easier than cutting the shortening into the flour yourself, but it does also run the risk of over processing the dough - so the instruction of adding only 1/4 of the butter and processing heavily, then adding the rest for only a quick blitz really made sense.


The other thing I started doing this year with my pie and biscuit pastry and I really believe helped here, is freezing my butter. They always tell you to work with shortening as cold as possible... and cut into cubes. In the past I've always found that taking the butter out of the fridge, and cutting it into cubes, in a kitchen I'm baking in and has an oven running, always it's started to soften some by the time it's cut. That's part of the reason I've always poo-poo'd the idea of using a grater - the warmth of your hands and the heat of the kitchen will start your butter softening before it's even hit the flour. So what I do it keep my pastry butter in the freezer, cut it into cubes, and then return it to the freezer for 10 or 15 minutes to harden again.


All I know is my pastry has been flakey.


You can see the lumps of butter in the pastry.

From there it's all in the handling. Roll out the dough, fold into thirds, roll it up, squash it into a neat square, cut into two halves, wrap in plastic. and then... LET IT REST.





Really - the resting is important. For ease of 'day of' I made all my puff pastry the day before and let it rest overnight in the fridge.


I made the sausage roll meat up the day before as well, and stored it overnight in a sealed container, it helps the flavours meld as well. As for the mini wellies,

I cut my left over tenderloin (yes I'd frozen that - which is a shame to do to a tenderloin, but better than wasting it!) and let it marinade overnight in a sealed plastic bag with 2 tbsp of that lovely port wine.


Now beef wellington comes in a number of differing recipes, some with proscuitto, some with mushrooms, some with just the meat wrapped in pastry. However, the most 'traditional' recipes I found wrap the meat in pate, and then in a mushroom mush mixture called 'duxelles'. The duxelles recipe I had called for 1.5 lbs of button mushrooms, now I don't know about you, but personally I find button mushrooms a bit bland, and 1.5 lbs was going to be wayyyyy more than my purposes called for. So I went with a mere 144 grams (slightly more than 1/4 lbs) of portabellos, and one shallot.


Chopped up together with the leaves from a sprig of thyme, and then sauteed in 1 tbsp of butter and 1 tbsp of olive oil about 5 minutes until it's all dry and kinda crumbly looking, season with a bit of salt and pepper. Simple stuff - but soooooooo yummy and earthy, and it wouldn't be the same dish if you skip this step. (And I had enough of this wonderful mushroom mixture left over for some truly yummy scrambled eggs the next day).




I covered the dish with plastic wrap, let it set overnight in the fridge, and the next day it was just an assembly process.


Take the cold puff pastry and on a floured board, bash it down slightly with a heavy rolling pin, then roll out to approx 1/8" thick. Using a 3" cookie/biscuit cutter cut out rounds, these will be the perfect size to line your standard mini muffin tins. Once the tins are lined with puff pastry fill each pastry. I was doing one tin of sausage meat, and the next tin with a small dollop of the duxelles, a tiny bite of pate, then the cube of beef tenderloin on top. Bake em at 425°F for 12-15 minutes - until golden and flaky. Serve the sausage roll ones with ketchup (aka tomato sauce) and the mini wellies with the beef sauce of your choice (horseradish or steak sauce or...)

The result was I couldn't pile these on the table fast enough.


They were so popular on Christmas afternoon, I did it again for New Years (I still had a ton of the sausage filling left in the freezer). I added a few sweet bites for the occasion. Some were port wine jelly with goat cheese, and some were dried apricots, with a dollop of apricot jam, and goat cheese. These too were voted a win!



(btw... in between Christmas and New Year's I acquired a couple thin silicon baking mats - not the thick patterned kind but thin 'cut to size yourself' - these made FABULOUS pastry rolling mats, and I'll never roll on anything else again! The shiny 'sticky' side held firm to the counter in a way parchment never will, but even with minimal flour the pasty *never* stuck to the mat. I'll be buying more of these!)

So it was that much food and fun was had by all, and I tuck yet another win into my ever growing list of kitchen successes - now THAT'S a real Yuletide treat!


Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Joyous)
I know, I know... this post is loooooooooooong overdue. But ya know, that's why I'm such a pathetically bad blogger, and probably will never do so professionally or even find a sponsor for this site. The problem is that with any of the lifestyle stuff - and this is essentially a lifestyle blog, I am in general more interested in LIVING the lifestyle than observing it, and a blog is essentially an observation of a life. This is also why I tend to be a bad photographer, I'm more involved in enjoying the moment than capturing it for posterity. Ahh well - I try to find the balance.

I promised a post about the holiday feasting... and oh such feasting there was. Somewhere over the four weeks of December, everyone got to bake, cook, eat, their favourites. And there were more than a few highlights:

Making mouse cookies and a gingerbread house, and lovely chocolate truffles with David





(yeah - the truffles don't last too long around here!)


Then there was James's birthday dinner - around here that means only one thing. ROAST BEAST!

(of course we were all so excited by the glorious sight of spit roasted beef tenderloin that we forgot all about the 'platter picture')

This year this was a full beef tenderloin

Now agreed, such an animal is indeed a hefty priced chunk o'cow flesh. But I get them at my Wholesale Cash and Carry for $40-$55 depending on the size, and really a low end steak dinner for two at a restaurant would be far more expensive, and far less satisfying (or tasty). And this one was too big for my spit so she got cut in two and one lovely rotisserie roast for 4, and two packs of 1 inch filet mignons, and two packs of beef tenderloin chunks for use later on.


When it comes to BEEF. I tend to like to keep the flavours fairly simple, but any cracked peppercorn is always nice. So it was that it got rubbed with mustard powder, rubbed with a homemade montreal style steak spice (peppercorns, coriander, garlic, onion, a touch of paprika and chili) ground together. I prefer to use a homemade here because your grocery store MSS is going to have salt in it, and I like to let the meat sit and absorb those flavours in the fridge for a few hours or overnight - and salt would draw out moisture and make my roast dry.



This time though I wanted to ramp things up a little bit with something a touch elegant. One of my personal favourites for rich deep flavour - port wine. So a little melted port wine jelly went over the whole mess and she sat and marinaded in the fridge all day.


Then it's simply tie it up tightly with kitchen twine, slide her onto the spit and roast away in a rotisserie oven, or bbq, and baste every so often with more of the port wine jelly. Cooked to an internal temperature of 140°F and rested covered for 10 minutes

The result was an extraordinary beautiful glazed beef tenderloin roast that delighted every one - even the non beef roast fans.

James loves coconut, so for a venture into new territory, I thought I'd try doing some sort of coconut and butter cream cake confection. So off I went to my beloved Julia for advice and decided to try a Genoise Cake. Now I wouldn't call this cake a 'loss', and I'm sure that whatever fault there is lies in my execution. I was well warned that this cake is drier and heavier than traditional North American cakes, and adding the maraschino cherries and coconut to the batter may have done it some harm as well. However, the buttercream was delightful and the cake tasted lovely. Just a bit thicker and heavier than I personally would have liked. I would in future also toast the coconut for the topping just a hair less.


With the girl child home from college there was more baking to happen ... she wanted to make some cookies to gift to a particular friend, and we were only too happy to oblige.

Traditional decorated sugar cookies


Triple Chocolate cookies


Chocolate Wafers


Peppermint Meringue Kisses (these were beautiful - melt in your mouth light goodness!)

Even the dogs got into the Yuletide act ... with carob treats, pumpkin peanut butter cookies, and cheesy chicken bites - for them and their friends.




For Christmas day itself I tend to go easy on the dinner part, most of the family isn't all at fond of stuffing and cranberries and a lot of fancy vegetable side dishes. So the main event itself was a pretty simple turkey, mashed potato casserole, sweet potato, glazed carrots.


Where I do get a bit carried away....the BAKING!


There were breads, and fruit cake, and a perfect mince meat pie.


There was a Yule log, (a beautiful thing courtesy of my lovely Cake Bible). The youngers in the house aren't fond of mince meat pie, and chocolate always goes over well, although they found the texture a bit too light and melty for their tastes - I was perfectly delighted and enamoured with this confectionery sculpture!


For New Year's there was a delightful small prime rib roast (1 rib - more like a large steak) - I do wish my grocery would stock not only a better selection of meats, but a nicer cut when they do. However, following the delightful Chef Michael Smith's instructions (although I reduced the time at 500°F down to 15 minutes) worked a treat and the roast was lovely. I had more ... complicated instructions from another source that have worked well for me in the past - but only for larger cuts of prime rib - for a smaller roast I'll go with Michael every time. We followed this with strawberry rhubarb pie, and carrot cake for all!

However, the BIG win of the holiday season - and I love to use the holidays as an excuse to try something new and a little bit more...outside the every day - was puff pastry nibblies. A HUGE success on Christmas afternoon, they came out again on New Year's Eve.... and they DESERVE a post of their own!

Originally posted to: The Plan® comment there or here
oceansedge: (Default)
I was planning on finising up the mulch today - but the mood came on me to do a little playing in the kitchen so I spent the afternoon in the kitchen with the dogs and James and baking.

Finished up a second batch of the dogs peanut butter bacon beef balls
Peanut Butter, Bacon, Beef Balls Coconut cinnamon yogurt
Then we did an organic coconut flour cinnamon cookie with a yogurt coating - turned out nicely and the dogs like em - but I think next time I make em smaller. They're a bit big for anything smaller than a Newf sized dog.

This was the apple berry crumble pie, with a shortbread crust. Tasty, but a bit heavy - more like an apple crisp than a pie.
apple berry crumble pie

The vanilla cupcakes turned out very nice, but I'll have to wait to ice em seems I'm a bit short on icing sugar.
vanilla cupcakes butterscotch - real butterscotch
The real win of the day was the real butterscotch to fill the cupcakes - made with 18 yr old single malt talisker it was a revelation in comparison to commercial sauces. I need to make more of this if there's going to be enough to fill the cakes. No seriously this is GREAT stuff.

Real ingredients, quality ingredients, it makes all the difference in the world. That and happy puppies.

The mulch will be there tomorrow

Now for homemade pizza, popcorn and a movie...

Cakes

Sep. 10th, 2010 06:29 pm
oceansedge: (Default)
Red velvet cake, traditional roux icing (interesting flavour/texture that one), 9x13 (note do not use pyrex casserole pans for baking cake layers)

Made for the Heavenly Creatures charity bingo last night. A fenced in sandlot dog park in a green field. I don't know how it tasted - or if they enjoyed it - I haven't had any feedback yet. But they did think it was pretty when I dropped it off.


Heavenly Creatures
Heavenly Creatures



I had some trouble with the pans, and I'd not worked with fondant sheets this big before - wasn't quite as pretty as I'd have liked (the Feychild was supposed to make me more animals, but she only left me a puppy and my kitty was a disaster - I can't sculpt worth....). But overall I was pleased - all home made, cake, icing, fondant, modeling chocolate, and piping gel - ok I bought the pretzels and the chocolate rocks. And I learned a great deal in the process

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